Chicken Foot Soup チキンフット(鶏の足)スープ

When we switched gears to talk about that single solitary dish she recalls from her childhood days which up to today still makes her heart dance, it was a really tough call. She has a real appreciation for all the dishes which graced her palate back then both those native to Port Antonio, those which had a Port Antonio signature twist or those which shaped her teen and adolescent years after she moved to Kingston. For her they all held and still to this very day hold a very sacred place in her heart. She then wandered off into a trance of sort listing favourites such as Portland’s very own and the symbol of Boston – jerk pork, jerk chicken and jerk sausages. Though no longer done in the deep underground dugout pits which were the ways of the Maroons, many of the traditions have been preserved. Traditions which begin and end with everything from the pimento (all spice) tree. The meat is seasoned to perfection with a delicate blend of pimento berries, thyme, escallion, onion, garlic, ginger, scotch bonnet and country peppers and salt which is left to marinate for at least a few hours. Overnight is best. The barbeque is then made of pimento stem rafters spread across the fire pit below. The rafters serve as the grill or grate on which the meat is placed. The meat is then covered with freshly picked pimento leaves and then covered with galvanized zinc sheets to allow the meat to slow cook and slowly develop the unmistakable flavour of the spices coupled with the oil from both the pimento wood, the leaves and the deliberate smoke from the smothered wood fire below. You can still enjoy this experience in Boston, Portland, Jamaica. Every visit is a festival. Be careful not to overindulge when you visit. Arguably the most exciting time to visit is for both the annual Boston Jerk Festival (http://bostonjerkfest.com/about/, http://youtu.be/4qUdj4Z1B9M) and the annual Port Antonio International Marlin Tournament (http://www.jamaicaexperiences.com/tickets/details/port-antonio-intl-marlin-tournament, http://jamaicasportsfishing.com/). If you visit to Jamaica does not align with either of the two, the Boston Jerk Center in Fairy Hill, Portland (http://bostonjerkcenter.com/), Scotchies in Kingston, Ocho Rios and Montego Bay is worth the visit. If you do not get as far as to Jamaica but happen to be in San Francisco – Back a Yard Caribbean Grill (https://backayard.net/).

JerkPan EP. 3 – Scotchies Drax Hall and Montego Bay | #cravnish

All this talk about jerk pork, chicken and sausage is mouth-wateringly tempting for sure. But this for Jodi-Ann was a close second as too was Ackee and Saltfish, Oxtail, Steam Fish and the endless list of amazingly tasty Jamaican dishes. For Jodi-Ann the two which were and are still her first love are:

1A. Cow Cod Soup; and

1B. Chicken Foot Soup.

Yes, that’s right. These two soups are the two comfort foods which delight her heart more so than any of all her favourite Jamaican dishes. She has offered to cook and video both soups for us. Unfortunately, however, these will be shared later on owing to the similar challenges with sourcing cow skin, pig tail, corned beef, and corned pork mentioned in previous interviews, cow cod has proved to be quite elusive. Although cow cod can be sourced here in Japan, they are very rare and the waiting list is extremely long. Similarly, cow skin generally goes into the production of leather for which there is a huge demand and prime money can be earned from this value –added product. Chicken foot on the other hand can be sourced in many supermarkets throughout Japan.

Soup in Jodi-Ann’s home was the main staple on Saturdays as it was in almost every Jamaican home back in the days. A tradition, a mores which still holds pride and place in the Jamaican rich culinary vernacular today as it did in her formative years. For the Cow Cod, prior to scalding they would be slit and the inner contents removed and washed. Whether it was Cow Cod or Chicken Foot, both were first scalded (shabbu shabbu in Japan) to remove impurities and the gamey meat taste and smell. After scalding the Chicken Foot was stripped and the claws trimmed and discarded. The Cow Cod or Chicken Foot would be washed again then scalded once again. Either the Cow Cod or Chicken Foot would then be placed in a big pot of boiling water. The Cow Cod or Chicken Foot would be cooked until tender. Soon after diced pumpkin and other vegetables, yam, dasheen, coco, green bananas and breadfruit if in season was then added along with seasonings such as scallion, thyme, whole pepper for favour, salt and other seasonings to one’s own family’s liking and tradition. When the soup was almost ready, packets of chicken noodles or cock soup (powdered consommé – popular brands being Carlton, Maggie or Grace) and dumplings were added to the pot.

This was wholesome goodness at its very best. These were the moments every family lived for. Everyone would be home for dinner without fail as this was and still is a dish best served hot and fresh from the pot. As with every Jamaican dish, there are allowances for different interpretations which result in variations to suit both local and individual family’s tastes, traditions, preferences as well as seasonality of certain choice produce. Some people add coconut milk to their Cow Cod Soup for some they need okras for others turnips and chochos are must haves with carrots. Whatever your preferences, a bowl or cup of either Cow Cod or Chicken Foot Soup is guaranteed to make your heart dance. Once you’ve had it, you can never stop craving more. So, when you visit Jamaica, B&B with a Jamaican, homestay with a Jamaica, visit a Jamaican home or dine at a Jamaican restaurant anywhere in the world, you must try either Cow Cod or Chicken Foot Soup (both are highly recommended). You can try them either as a part of a course meal or the real Jamaican way – a complete one pot meal.

Until next time, walk good, stay safe and eat until belly bust.

Next in the series is a man who like Jodi-Ann has a unique gift of story-telling and is on a mission to leave his indelible mark as a novelist and self-styled publisher through modern medium – to tell us about a romance with a wicked twist of drama and intrigue. “Something we can all relate to if we are to be truly honest with ourselves.” Stay tuned.

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Author and Interviewer: Radcliffe Lennox
Translator: Shiho Owada

彼女の子供の頃の思い出の中で、今日まで彼女の心を躍らせてきた、たった一品の料理を決めることは本当に難しい決断でした。彼女は、ポート・アントニオの郷土料理、ポート・アントニオの特徴であるひねりを加えた料理、あるいはキングストンに引っ越してきた後の10代の頃の彼女の味覚を形成した料理、いずれの料理にも本当に感謝しています。彼女にとって、これらの料理はすべて彼女の心の中でとても神聖な場所であり、今もなお彼女の心の中にあるのです。そして彼女は、ポートランド独自のものやボストンのシンボルであるジャークポーク、ジャークチキン、ジャークソーセージなど、お気に入りのものをリストアップしていくという一種のトランス状態の中に迷い込んでいきました。もはやマルーンのやり方であった地下深くの掘った穴では行われていませんが、伝統の多くは残っています。ピメント(オールスパイス)の木からのすべてのものが始まり、終わりを告げる伝統。肉は、ピメントベリー、タイム、エスカリオン、タマネギ、ニンニク、生姜、スコッチボンネット、カントリーペッパーと塩をブレンドした繊細な味付けで完璧に味付けされ、最低でも数時間はマリネしておきます。一晩がベストです。バーベキューは、下の焚き火台の上にピメントの茎の垂木を敷き詰めていきます。垂木は、肉が置かれているグリルや火格子として機能します。摘みたてのピメントの葉で肉を覆い、亜鉛メッキを施したシートで覆うことで、じっくりと火を通し、ピメントの木と葉から出る油、そして薪の火から出る煙と相まって、スパイスの紛れもない風味をゆっくりと醸し出していきます。ジャマイカのボストン、ポートランド、ポートランドでは今でもこの体験を楽しむことができます。訪れるたびにお祭りです。訪れる際には、食べ過ぎに注意してください。間違いなく訪問する最もエキサイティングな時期は、毎年恒例のボストン・ジャーク・フェスティバルと毎年恒例のポート・アントニオ国際カジキ・トーナメントの両方です。ジャマイカへの訪問がこの2つのどちらにも当てはまらない場合は、ポートランドのフェアリーヒルにあるボストン・ジャーク・センター。 キングストン、オチョリオス、モンテゴベイのスコッチーズは、訪問する価値があります。あなたがジャマイカにいけない場合は、サンフランシスコにある- バッカヤードカリビアングリル(https://backayard.net/)もおすすめです。

Boston JerkFest


1A. カウ・カッド(牛の睾丸)のスープ

1B. チキンフット(鶏の足)のスープ。






ご連絡をお待ちしております。この記事について気に入った点を教えてください。 「カウ・カッドまたはチキンフットスープ」の体験を共有してください。

著者&インタビュアー:ラドクリフ レノックス

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