{"id":3470,"date":"2020-09-03T16:08:58","date_gmt":"2020-09-03T07:08:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/dp03265696.lolipop.jp\/npo\/?p=3470"},"modified":"2020-09-08T13:58:08","modified_gmt":"2020-09-08T04:58:08","slug":"ackee-and-corned-pork","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jamaicanpo.org\/npo\/mifood\/ackee-and-corned-pork\/","title":{"rendered":"Ackee and Corned Pork \u30a2\u30ad\u30fc\u3068\u30b3\u30fc\u30f3\u30dd\u30fc\u30af"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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\u5de6\u4e0a\u3001Ms. Gillian Johns\uff1a\u30b8\u30ea\u30a2\u30f3\u30fb\u30b8\u30e7\u30fc\u30f3\u30ba\u3055\u3093\u3001\u5de6\u4e0b\u3001\u7f36\u8a70\u3067\u306a\u3044\u30a2\u30ad\u30fc\u306e\u5b9f\u3001\u53f3\u5074\u3001CAYMANAS ESTATES\u3000\u30b1\u30a4\u30de\u30ca\u30b9\u7802\u7cd6\u8fb2\u5712<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Ackee and Corned Pork<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

This is the seventh instalment in our \u201cFood I fondly remember\u201d interview series which is aimed at introducing Japanese to odds defying Jamaican and their Jamaican soul foods which many Japanese have never experienced but are really worth trying.
Featured in this our seventh interview is Gillian Johns \u2013 a woman whose wisdom belies her age. As Gillian stated in our interview \u2013 the traditional career paths for members of her high school alma mater were either law, medicine or business leadership. As such, she would eventually acquiesce and pursue one of the noblest and paradoxically one of the professions most often viewed through the lens of cynicism and distrust\u2013 perhaps politics being held in similar stead.
Not only does Gillian command the respect of her fellow legal counterparts \u2013 but most importantly, she enjoys the trust, admiration and respect of ordinary citizens with whom she interacts on a professional basis. She is held in high esteem by those of whom she admirably serves because of her innate and deeply ingrained ethical code of conduct and fairness. These values which she holds true were inculcated in her by her extended family which was headed by her maternal grandmother and the family\u2019s matriarch.
So, who is Gillian? What was her genesis? What was her formative years like? How did her formative years colour her connoisseur palate? And how, by virtue of her age, has she been a trailblazer.
It all began on one late December day. Her sojourn into this world began almost forty years ago right around the Christmas season. Her parents, the Johns, welcomed their bundle of joy into this world in their humble Waterford abode in what was then the burgeoning bed town of KINGSTON<\/a> in the south-easternmost part of the parish of St. Catherine. [Up until the late 19th century (from 1534 to 1872), St. Catherine \u2013 the largest of Jamaica\u2019s fourteen parishes<\/a> \u2013 was home to the former capital city of Jamaica, SPANISH TOWN]. Portmore whose history dates back to its TA\u00cdNO<\/a> settlements back in 900 AD, is a sprawling bed town of Kingston. Most recently, it was once a part of the CAYMANAS ESTATES<\/a>. It was once one of the most important regions to the sustenance of then dominant agricultural and port sectors which were then Jamaica\u2019s main economic contributors. Portmore started out with a few planned housing schemes starting with Independence City in 1969 \u2013 the home to the Caymanas Horse Race Track. By 1975 other housing schemes such as Edgewater, Bridgeport, Passage Fort and Waterford were built. Others have since mushroomed in the succeeding decades from the 1980s to present. Most of these homes were built by the Matalons<\/a> \u2013 owners of the (West Indies Home Contractors (WIHCON) <\/a>).
Gillian, being born in December, started her primary school education in grade 1 when she was still only five years old. This turned out to be a huge blessing in disguise for her. Although not her parents\u2019 first child, she was invariably always the youngest \u2013 if not the youngest and the first \u2013 among those in her social circle and in her school year by extension, to accomplish certain things. By the time she started high school at arguably Jamaica\u2019s number one all-female high school which is located in the Kingston 8 community adjacent to the Constant Spring Golf and Country Club, she was not yet eleven years old and her transition took place a year after Hurricane Gilbert had completed devastated Jamaica and many of our Caribbean neighbours.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Her stellar academic accolades did not stop there. Gillian at the tender age of 16 started her law degree at the University of the West Indies, Faculty of Law, on the Mona Campus in Kingston, Jamaica. This was no minor feat. Coveted acceptance into the law degree program at the University of the West Indies (UWI) is extremely competitive in 2020. Twenty-three years ago, it was immensely more difficult. Gillian turned 17<\/a> <\/a>in year one of her studies at UWI, Mona Campus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By the time she started year two, she was still 17 and relocated to the Cave Hill Campus of the UWI in Barbados. She would not celebrate her eighteenth birthday until close to Christmas \u2013 over three months after moving to Barbados. Most importantly, this was Gillian\u2019s first time ever living away from her family and relatives. She was forced to make adult decisions all by herself and with the help of her older and more mature cohorts. In them, she had found her new pseudo family.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gillian though was purpose driven and very focused \u2013 well beyond her youth. She completed her two years at Cave Hill and obtained her LL.B (Bachelors of Law Degree) and was back again in Kingston to begin her two year qualification to become an attorney-at-law. She completed the two-year Certificate of Legal Education (CLE) at the Norman Manley Law School at the Mona Campus, UWI before her 23rd<\/sup> birthday. She was called to the Private Bar as to what she deemed to have been a pre-23rd<\/sup> birthday present. A phenomenal feat. A feat that requires steady focus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Her formative years in her notable eighteen years and counting includes work at the private bar where she honed her skills in conveyancing, estate administration and litigation. Soon after the birth of her first child, son Kristian (a huge fan of Japan and Japanese animation), Gillian decided to expand into public administration and so she joined the public bar. Practicing at the public bar would enable her to fulfill one of her lifelong passions of giving back to her country. The time had come for this professional mother to serve the government and people of Jamaica. Now a mother of two, and still practicing at the public bar, Gillian has thoroughly enjoyed every moment of her career and raising her children.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

She has since completed her Master\u2019s Degree in Public Administration and believes she is well on her way to help building a more robust public sector and ultimately a better nation which can meet the challenges and avail itself of the opportunities which present themselves in the twenty-first century.  Her daughter, Ashley, has followed in the footsteps of her brother and will be joining Kristian this September at Jamaica\u2019s leading co-educational high school located in the Liguanea area of St. Andrew. Needless to say, Gillian has played a very pivotal role in both her children\u2019s early successes. She has prioritized her time to helping groom and condition them both mentally and academically to achieve their full potential. Just around the time Gillian was sharing her biography with me, the power went. For those of us who grew up in Jamaica, particularly in the 1970s, 80s and 90s, power cuts were as certain as taxes. At one point, they were weekly occurrences often blanketing most of the night, if not the entire night in total darkness. Back then, it was the norm rather than the exception that most students had to strain their eyes under the low lumens being emitted from the candle, kerosene or gas lanterns which were lit in every home to provide a glimmer of hope that the power outage would not be as long as the previous one. Gillian was quick to inform me that the current power disruption was an exception rather than the norm. In fact, so infrequent are these electrical outages that Ashley had grown impatient only a mere 15 minutes into the power cut. It was a notable contrast to the reaction of many children during Gillian\u2019s childhood who grew up with an expectancy of frequent power outages and who would resort to community activities in order to pass the time until power came back. This was one of the many fond childhood memories we reminisced.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

\n

\u5f7c\u5973\u306e\u7d20\u6674\u3089\u3057\u3044\u5b66\u696d\u6210\u7e3e\u306f\u305d\u3053\u306b\u7559\u307e\u308a\u307e\u305b\u3093\u3067\u3057\u305f\u300216\u6b73\u306b\u306a\u3063\u305f\u30b8\u30ea\u30a2\u30f3\u306f\u3001\u30b8\u30e3\u30de\u30a4\u30ab\u306e\u30ad\u30f3\u30b0\u30b9\u30c8\u30f3\u306b\u3042\u308b\u897f\u30a4\u30f3\u30c9\u8af8\u5cf6\u5927\u5b66\uff08University of West Indies\uff1a\u7565\u3057\u3066UWI\u3001\u4ee5\u964dUWI\uff09\u6cd5\u5b66\u90e8\u30e2\u30ca\u30ad\u30e3\u30f3\u30d1\u30b9\u3067\u6cd5\u5b66\u90e8\u306e\u5b66\u4f4d\u3092\u53d6\u5f97\u3057\u307e\u3057\u305f\u3002\u3053\u308c\u306f\u30de\u30a4\u30ca\u30fc\u306a\u5049\u696d\u3067\u306f\u3042\u308a\u307e\u305b\u3093\u3067\u3057\u305f\u3002UWI\u306e\u6cd5\u5f8b\u5b66\u4f4d\u30d7\u30ed\u30b0\u30e9\u30e0\u3078\u306e\u53d7\u5165\u308c\u306f\u5165\u5b66\u5e0c\u671b\u8005\u305f\u3061\u306e\u9593\u3067\u306f\u975e\u5e38\u306b\u7af6\u4e89\u529b\u304c\u3042\u308a\u307e\u3059\uff082020\u5e74\u73fe\u5728\uff09\u300223\u5e74\u524d\u3001\u305d\u308c\u306f\u8a08\u308a\u77e5\u308c\u306a\u3044\u307b\u3069\u56f0\u96e3\u3067\u3057\u305f\u3002\u30b8\u30ea\u30a2\u30f3\u306f\u3001UWI\u30e2\u30ca\u30ad\u30e3\u30f3\u30d1\u30b9\u3067\u5f7c\u5973\u306e\u7814\u7a76\u306e1\u5e74\u76ee\u306b17\u6b73\u306b\u306a\u308a\u307e\u3057\u305f\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\n

Gillian and I had switched gears and started on the topic of the one childhood dish which to this very day, still makes her heart dance. Based on her enthusiasm about the subject, I can only imagine her physical glow from talking about \u201cAckee and Corned Pork\u201d<\/em>, which I honestly believe was responsible for the speedy resumption of electricity service. To my surprise, the power was returned in less than twenty minutes. Now to get a full appreciation as to how and why \u201cAckee and Corned Pork\u201d<\/em> was and still is the one dish which makes Gillian\u2019s heart dance, she graciously took me on a journey back to where it all began. Back to Waterford, Portmore, St. Catherine and even further back, to Asia District in Clarendon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Growing up, her family lived very close to her extended family with her maternal grandmother being the main axis of the family. She recalls cooking being done everywhere around her.  Her maternal grandfather, who was a chef by profession, would make punches, porridges, and ice-cream. These chilled delights were as evil on the palate as they were celestial. She would also delight in his creamy savoury cornmeal porridge made with fresh hand-grated and juiced coconut milk and accompanied with water crackers for dunking. Now this was delight of all the spices subtly sending off some pulses in the brain that left her wanting <\/a>more.Now this was a delight of several spices which were subtly triggering off some pulses in the brain that left her wanting more.Growing up, her family lived very close to her extended family with her maternal grandmother being the main axis of the family. She recalls cooking being done everywhere around her.  Her maternal grandfather, who was a chef by profession, would make punches, porridges, and ice-cream. These chilled delights were as evil on the palate as they were celestial. She would also delight in his creamy savoury cornmeal porridge made with fresh hand-grated and juiced coconut milk and accompanied with water crackers for dunking. Now this was delight of all the spices subtly sending off some pulses in the brain that left her wanting <\/a>more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As amazing as her grandfather was in the kitchen, it was her grandmother\u2019s kitchen magic which held her and her extended family undeniably captive. As a homemaker, Gillian\u2019s grandmother used to sell her baked products to help supplement the family\u2019s modest finances. This naturally led to Gillian, her mom, her siblings, her aunts and her cousins to become avid cooks and connoisseurs in their own rights. In fact, so magnetized to cooking was one of her aunts that she opened her own restaurant in the USA.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It seems that in her very young and most impressionable years, Gillian thought, \u201c\u2026 my aunts and grandma loved me so much that they would spend an entire day going late into the night baking all these delicious cakes for my birthday.\u201d It would be some years later of helping the bakers that she would realize that her belief was true to a point. As mentioned earlier, Gillian\u2019s birthday was very close to Christmas Day. A huge part of the Christmas (Yuletide) observance was enjoying moist, fruity, flavourful Jamaican Christmas Cake \u2013 the only cake which comes remotely close is the Jamaican Wedding Cake \u2013 accompanied by a well-chilled glass of Sorrel Juice (made from a species of hibiscus which seems to come into full bloom just in time for Christmas and bears some similarities to rosehip). This was one of the main reasons for all the excitement around baking these delights in addition to continuing the family\u2019s baking tradition. The role of Gillian along with her cousins who would stay up all night was eating the remaining batter which was left back on the side of the mixing bowl.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As amazing an experience as this was for Gillian, she vividly recalls how traditions played an important part in the daily culinary escapades she went on. With both her parents away at work throughout the day, she was left in the affectionate care of her grandmother. Her grandmother, like most pre-21st<\/sup> century Jamaican homemakers, each day of the week religiously had their signature dish. The mores then, still holds true in many Jamaican homes today. Saturday is traditionally the soup day and no Sunday dinner is complete without rice and peas to complement the main meat dish. Anything but, was blasphemous. It was sacrilegious. But with this universe of awesome goodness from the family\u2019s kitchen which she loved, there was one dish which her insatiable appetite just could not get enough of. This one dish \u2013 a slight variation of Jamaica\u2019s national dish \u2013 \u201cAckee and Saltfish\u201d<\/em> can be traced back to the nook and cranny of a rural district named Asia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Her maternal great grandmother (the mother of her maternal grandmother) lived in the rural district of Asia in the south-western hilly hinterlands of the parish of Clarendon. Asia is so close to Porus, a rural town in the neighbouring parish of Manchester that Asia is often mistaken as Porus. Porus, incidentally, was one of the train stations serviced by the then Jamaica Railway Corporation. To get to her great grandmother\u2019s property, heading west along the southern coastline of Jamaica, you need to take a left turn just before you get to Juici Patties located between the towns of Trout Hall and Toll Gate in Clarendon. As you travel along the narrow road, you will eventually come to a fork (Y-junction).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To get to her great grandmother\u2019s property, you would have to keep left. If you were to take the fork on the right and climb that hill, you would soon get to one of the most breathtakingly stunning view ever. Straight ahead you will see the resplendently beautiful vista of the Caribbean Sea and off in the distant to your right, you would see \u201cLovers Leap\u201d<\/em>. Lovers Leap is in St. Elizabeth \u2013 the home parish to Appleton \u2013 the world\u2019s second oldest rum estate and distilleries. Lovers Leap is the stunningly beautiful cliff where two young enslaved who were madly in love would meet at nights until their masters discovered their romantic interludes. Rather than living apart from each other, they leapt from the cliff to live eternally together in love.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Back to Gillian\u2019s great grandmother\u2019s place in Asia District. Her great grandmother had a self-sufficient farm lot. She raised livestock and grew her own provisions. Numbered among her provisions were cocoa and many other fruit, vegetables and herbs. Amongst the livestock she reared were chicken, goats and pigs. Back in those days, her great grandmother would make her own corned pork. As \u201cCorned Pork\u201d<\/em> was always in her pantry and \u201cSaltfish\u201d<\/em> being more of a luxury item, her great grandmother, like most of her neighbours in Asia District and its environs added a super tantalizingly savoury twist to the Jamaican national dish. \u201cAckee and Corned Pork\u201d<\/em> is one of the secret dishes of Asia District.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gillian recalled salivating in those days while the seasoning, \u201cAckee and Corned Pork\u201d<\/em> would saut\u00e9 in the freshly made oil from milk extracted from hand grated coconuts. The coconut milk was boiled out in the yard over a wooden fire until the milk became oil. No meal of \u201cAckee and Corned Pork\u201d<\/em> was ever complete without boiled soft yam and dumplings. Other times, this would be complemented with fried dumplings or bammies (a cassava cake or bread). I could just hear the excitement and the longingness in Gillian\u2019s voice for some \u201cAckee and Corned Pork\u201d<\/em>. The evil side of me had to tempt her more. I had to encourage her to satisfy her wants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It did not take much for me to encourage her to journey outside of her normal routine. She quickly agreed to cook her favourite dish and to send us photos for this article. No sooner had we ended the interview that she got on the phone to ask her mom to get some of the best ackees in Jamaica. Her mom went to the largest and well-known market in Jamaica, located in the heart of downtown Kingston and named \u2018Coronation Market\u2019. There Gillian\u2019s mom handpicked the freshest and best ackees for this article. Gillian had originally planned to cook the dish on the Sunday after our interview. But although Gillian is someone who is never easily tempted, very focused and strong willed \u2013 she was no match for \u201cAckee and Corned Pork\u201d<\/em>. The photos came before the planned day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I was surprised when Gillian sent me the photos of her handy work well ahead of her scheduled cooking date. She confessed that she had to take that journey through culinary time and space. She had to acquiesce. She had to give in. She needed her heart to dance again. So, it was a most timely and fitting reason to get into the kitchen and work her magic. For her children \u2013 Kristian and Ashley, they too were longing for their hearts to dance. For them, Christmas could not have come soon enough. A midsummer\u2019s Christmas was just what the doctor had ordered. For Gillian, you cannot visit central Jamaica whether it is Asia on the Clarendon side or Porus on the Manchester side and not request a hearty serving of \u201cAckee and Corned Pork\u201d<\/em>. So, when you visit Jamaica, stay with a Jamaican or dine at a Jamaican eatery, ask for \u201cAckee and Corned Pork\u201d, please<\/em>. Until next time, walk good, and stay safe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Author and Interviewer: Radcliffe Lennox
Translator: Shiho Owada<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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\u30b3\u30fc\u30f3\u30dd\u30fc\u30af<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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