Grandmother’s “Fried Dumplings with Sautéed Cabbage.” おばあちゃんの「フライド・ダンプリングとキャベツソテー」

左がカリのクライアント”High Noon Spice”のスパイス、右がカリ・アラナ・ヘロン氏

Mocho, Clarendon モコ、クラレンドン


Grandmother’s “Fried Dumplings with Sautéed Cabbage.”

This is the thirteenth instalment in our “Food I fondly remember” interview series which is aimed at introducing Japanese to odds defying Jamaican and their Jamaican soul foods which many Japanese have never experienced but are really worth trying.

Featured in this our thirteenth interview is Kari Alana Heron – a humble flagbearer of Jamaican food, an entrepreneur, an astute business consultant and a woman on a mission to revolutionize the way cook many of Jamaica’s most popular dishes with the ingredients those in the diaspora have to use as substitutes for the authentic Jamaican ingredients. Through her popular food blog, www.chefandsteward.com, which was started over 10 years ago, Kari has truly whetted the appetite of global citizens of all walks of life the world over who keep clambering for more of her special recipes which has seen both her blog and media presence scale of operation and her market share growing exponentially year on year.

Kari, who now resides in Aruba has been living outside Jamaica for thirteen years, has not lost her roots or her Jamaican identity. Kari was born and bred in St. Catherine while her mother traces her humble beginnings to a farming community named Mocho, Clarendon. Kari recalled that a lot of her childhood meals she enjoyed were cooked at home. Back then, fast food was frowned upon. Her parents instilled strict discipline and no eating was allowed on the road. The inescapable indulgence in the occasional Tastee patties with Juciful orange juice or Jamaica spiced bun with cheese were to only exceptions to the tabooed fast food.

Back in the days, her father had a small farm on her paternal great grandparents in Mount Regale, St. Mary. This meant they would spend most weekends in the country – an escape from the hustle and bustle of St. Catherine where they lived and Kingston where she attended school. When setting out on these trips to the farm or on other road trips, her mother would often busy herself in the kitchen from around 4:00 AM to cook a feast which often included Rice and Peas and chicken to take with them on their journey. This escape was a throwback in time.

These weekends were magical. She recalled how amazed she was at the knowledge her cousins had of nature and of edible plants. She also credits her culinary skills and passion to those formative years when her cousins would run mini-boats in corned beef cans.

Back then, snacks were all almost 100% fresh and natural. Most of the snacks were picked fresh from the trees and devoured either in or under the tree. The others were home made and included coconut treats such as Toto Cake, Puddings, Coconut Drops and Gizzadas. Kari also went back to memory lane to salivate about snacking on the succulent “Heirloom Tomatoes” and cucumber salad with a dash of salt. Other memories which came running back to her memory included the arresting rich aroma of her grandfather’s freshly roasted and brewed coffee which he would give them a sip of when no one was around. Naturally he grew his own coffee given that Mocho is situated in the prime “High Mountain” coffee growing region. The area is also known for its cocoa – the “Trinitario” varietal. In addition to the coffee being home grown, freshly roasted and freshly brewed – perhaps the added joy came from watching her grandfather using a traditional mortar and pestle to ground the roasted beans to the perfect size and consistency and enjoying that whiff of rich aroma permeating the air in a pleasantly intoxicating manner. A few years ago on a visit to a coffee shop in Texas, Kari was taken back in time with a brew of Vietnamese coffee.



ジャマイカ料理の謙虚な旗手であり、起業家であり、洞察力のあるビジネスコンサルタントであり、ジャマイカの最も人気のある料理の多くを、世界中の人々が本場のジャマイカの食材の代わりに使わなければならない食材を使って作る方法に革命を起こすことを使命としている女性、カリ・アラナ・ヘロンに13回目のインタビューに登場していただきました。10年以上前に始めた彼女の人気フードブログ www.chefandsteward.com を通じて、カリは世界中の様々な生活様式のグローバル市民の食欲を刺激し、彼女の特別なレシピをもっと食べたいという欲求を満たしてきました。


昔、彼女の父方の曽祖父母がマウントリーガル、セントメアリーに小さな農場を持っていました。そのため、彼らは週末の大半を田舎で過ごすことになります – 週末は彼らが住んでいたセント・キャサリンと彼女が学校に通っていたキングストンの喧騒からの逃避行でした。これらの農場への旅や他の旅に出かけるとき、彼女の母親はしばしば午前4時頃から台所で忙しくしはじめ、旅に持って行くためのライス&ピーズと鶏肉を含むごちそうを料理することがありました。この逃避行は時代の流れに逆行していました。


当時のおやつは、ほぼ100%新鮮で自然なものばかりでした。おやつのほとんどは、木から新鮮なものを採り、木の中や木の下で食べていました。他のものは自家製で、トトケーキ(スパイスバンのようなもの)、プリン、ココナッツドロップス、ギザーダなどのココナッツのお菓子が含まれていました。カリも、ジューシーなヘアルーム・トマトとキュウリのサラダを塩をかけ、おやつとして食べたことを今でも懐かしく感じています。彼女の他の思い出は、誰もいない時に祖父が淹れたばかりのコーヒーを一口飲ませてくれた時の芳醇な香りが印象的だったことです。モコが最高の「ハイマウンテン」コーヒー栽培地域に位置していることを考えると、当然祖父自身もコーヒーを栽培していました。この地域はカカオの産地としても知られています。コーヒーは自家栽培、焙煎したばかり、淹れたてのコーヒーに加えて、祖父が伝統的なすり鉢と杵を使って焙煎した豆を完璧な大きさに挽くのを見て、豊かな香りが心地よく空気に浸透していくのを見て、さらに喜びを感じるようになったのかもしれません。 数年前、テキサスのコーヒーショップを訪れた際、カリはベトナムコーヒーの淹れ方でタイムスリップしてしまったと語りました。

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